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Alert for additives in facial mask: glucocorticoid alert

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Glucocorticoid is a kind of steroid hormone secreted by the fascicular zone of adrenal cortex. It can inhibit the proliferation of fibroblasts and reduce the formation of 5-hydroxytryptamine, which has a whitening effect on skin. Short-term use of cosmetics illegally added with glucocorticoids can make the skin appear smooth and tender.

However, long-term use of glucocorticoids in large doses can easily lead to various adverse reactions, such as Cushing's syndrome, severe infection, osteoporosis, peptic ulcer, diabetes, acne, behavioral cognitive changes, etc. Therefore, such products, commonly known as "Opium mask", are very harmful to consumers. The cosmetic safety technical specification of many countries clearly stipulates that glucocorticoids are prohibited ingredients.

However, some illegal enterprises illegally add various glucocorticoids in the mask to make the mask products quick and whitening and improve the skin condition.

Application and side effects of glucocorticoid

External use of glucocorticoids can reduce the permeability of skin capillaries, reduce exudation and cell infiltration. It has anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, immunosuppressive and anti-proliferation effects. Therefore, it is widely used in the treatment of skin diseases. Glucocorticoids have strong or weak effects. According to the intensity of glucocorticoids, glucocorticoids can be divided into four categories: super-strong, strong, medium and weak.

Glucocorticoids can rapidly constrict capillaries, but at the same time, they can rapidly reduce cell activity and cellular immunity, inhibit the secretion of sebum, leading to hormone-dependent dermatitis. Its remarkable feature is that after the use of hormones, skin symptoms rapidly improve and continue for weeks or months. Once the medication is stopped, within about 2 days, the skin parts will appear red spots, tenderness, desquamation, pain, itching, burning and other symptoms. If the hormone is used again, the above discomfort symptoms can be alleviated. If the hormone is stopped again, the symptoms will appear quickly.

It has been found that in the animal model of glucocorticoid-dependent dermatitis, the pathological changes of skin epithelial atrophy can be observed within 30 days with any intensity of hormone. It is possible that corticosteroid-dependent dermatitis can be induced by 0.02% and 0.05% clobetasol propionate (also known as clobetasol propionate) for about 50 days. In addition, glucocorticoids have the effect of water and sodium retention to increase blood volume. Long-term use of glucocorticoids can aggravate the symptoms of patients with hypertension. Long-term use may also induce or aggravate gastric and duodenal ulcers, make menopausal women osteoporosis, cause muscle atrophy, delay wound healing and glaucoma.

Other studies have shown that topical hormones can inhibit cell proliferation and hyaluronic acid synthesis in skin tissues, and reduce hyaluronic acid in skin extracellular matrix, thus leading to skin atrophic changes. If the patient's skin continues to use hormones for 6 weeks, skin atrophy, increased skin fragility, and the occurrence of spontaneous stellate pseudoscar, telangiectasia and other symptoms will occur.

In addition, topical hormones may lead to contact dermatitis, photosensitivity and contact urticaria. If the skin is treated with hormones on the basis of trauma combined with infection, it may even aggravate and spread the infection. The percutaneous absorption of more than potent hormones may also cause adverse reactions such as elevated blood sugar, iatrogenic adrenocortical hyperfunction and adrenocortical failure after drug withdrawal.

Clinically, skin medication has strict indications and procedures for the administration of glucocorticoids, generally starting with a single weak glucocorticoid. Illegal hormones added to the mask are generally powerful and super potent, because adding stronger hormones to the skin is more effective in whitening and rejuvenation. However, the long-term use of high or super-potent glucocorticoids can lead to serious adverse reactions such as inhibiting the thalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis (HPA) and destroying the skin barrier function, activating various inflammatory cytokines and microbial infection.

Even if the dosage does not reach the clinical dosage, if consumers apply it on weak facial skin for a long time, it will cause serious harm to human body, especially facial skin. Especially in the face and eyes and other parts of the skin with high absorption rate, more cautious use.

The phenomenon of illegal glucocorticoid production has low production cost and low production process requirements. In order to attract consumers and increase sales, illegal businesses illegally add various kinds of glucocorticoids in the mask, which is also the most serious quality and safety problem in mask cosmetics.

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